Ask anyone who lives here and they will tell you the same thing: Orkney does not really have weather, it has weathers. A bright, still morning can turn into a blustery, rain-lashed afternoon by the time you have finished your second cup of tea, and then clear again in time for a golden evening walk along the shore. The islands sit where the Atlantic meets the North Sea, with almost no trees to slow the wind down, so conditions can shift with genuine speed. Summer days often sit between 13°C and 16°C, and a stiff breeze can make that feel several degrees cooler. Pack for that reality rather than for a postcard, and you will enjoy Orkney far more than the visitor who spends the week damp, cold and cross.
The single most useful principle for Orkney packing is layering. You want to be able to add or remove warmth in seconds, without retreating to your guest house. Three thin layers beat one thick one every time, and they take up far less space in your bag.
Bring two mid layers if you are here outside June to August, and consider a thin pair of thermal leggings for spring and autumn. They weigh almost nothing and can transform a cold clifftop walk.
Orkney rain frequently arrives sideways, which is why a flimsy umbrella is a liability rather than a help. Invest in a properly waterproof jacket with taped seams, a adjustable hood and a hem you can cinch down. Waterproof overtrousers are just as important — they slip over your normal trousers in thirty seconds and make the difference between a pleasant beach wander and a miserable retreat.
A lightweight packable waterproof is fine for showery summer days, but if you are visiting between October and March, bring something more substantial. It is also worth packing a small dry bag or rucksack liner for your camera, phone and spare layers. Even a short shower can soak an unprotected daypack.
Orkney rewards walkers, but the ground underfoot is varied: grassy clifftop paths, wet boggy moorland, sand, seaweed-covered rocks and the smooth flagstones of Stromness and Kirkwall. One pair of sturdy, broken-in walking boots will cover most of it. Choose boots with real grip and decent ankle support; a summer trainer is not enough for the path out to a sea stack.
These are the items people forget and then wish they had brought.
A little thought about your accommodation makes the week run more smoothly. Most Orkney guest houses are well used to wet walkers and will have somewhere to hang waterproofs, dry boots and air damp clothing. Ask when you arrive where the drying space is, and use it properly: hang jackets open rather than bunched up, stuff newspaper or dry kitchen roll into soaked boots, and avoid draping wet gear over radiators unless you have been told it is fine.
Pack a couple of spare waterproof layers rather than one, so something can dry while you are out in the other. A small clothes line or a few pegs is handy for socks and gloves. And leave a little room in your case — between the knitwear, the books and the inevitable Orkney souvenirs, you will be glad of the space on the way home.
Finally, embrace the changeability. The shifting light and sudden squalls are part of what makes these islands so memorable. Dress for it, and you will find yourself outdoors far longer, watching the weather move across the sea rather than hiding from it.
Tides and weather affect ferries, causeways and coastal walks. Check forecasts and tide tables daily to avoid disruption.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
Accommodation, ferries and meals are the main costs. Planning ahead and choosing self-catering can help keep your Orkney trip affordable.
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