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Packing for Changeable Orkney Weather: A Helpful Checklist

Orkney Weather: Four Seasons Before Lunch

Ask anyone who lives here and they will tell you the same thing: Orkney does not really have weather, it has weathers. A bright, still morning can turn into a blustery, rain-lashed afternoon by the time you have finished your second cup of tea, and then clear again in time for a golden evening walk along the shore. The islands sit where the Atlantic meets the North Sea, with almost no trees to slow the wind down, so conditions can shift with genuine speed. Summer days often sit between 13°C and 16°C, and a stiff breeze can make that feel several degrees cooler. Pack for that reality rather than for a postcard, and you will enjoy Orkney far more than the visitor who spends the week damp, cold and cross.

Start With Layers, Not Bulk

The single most useful principle for Orkney packing is layering. You want to be able to add or remove warmth in seconds, without retreating to your guest house. Three thin layers beat one thick one every time, and they take up far less space in your bag.

  • Base layer: merino wool or a good synthetic wicking fabric. Cotton next to the skin is a poor choice here — once it is damp, it stays damp and chills you.
  • Mid layer: a fleece, a light down or synthetic gilet, or a wool jumper. This is the layer you will take on and off most often.
  • Outer layer: a windproof and waterproof shell with a hood that stays up in a gust.

Bring two mid layers if you are here outside June to August, and consider a thin pair of thermal leggings for spring and autumn. They weigh almost nothing and can transform a cold clifftop walk.

Waterproofs That Earn Their Place

Orkney rain frequently arrives sideways, which is why a flimsy umbrella is a liability rather than a help. Invest in a properly waterproof jacket with taped seams, a adjustable hood and a hem you can cinch down. Waterproof overtrousers are just as important — they slip over your normal trousers in thirty seconds and make the difference between a pleasant beach wander and a miserable retreat.

A lightweight packable waterproof is fine for showery summer days, but if you are visiting between October and March, bring something more substantial. It is also worth packing a small dry bag or rucksack liner for your camera, phone and spare layers. Even a short shower can soak an unprotected daypack.

Footwear for Cliffs, Beaches and Flagstones

Orkney rewards walkers, but the ground underfoot is varied: grassy clifftop paths, wet boggy moorland, sand, seaweed-covered rocks and the smooth flagstones of Stromness and Kirkwall. One pair of sturdy, broken-in walking boots will cover most of it. Choose boots with real grip and decent ankle support; a summer trainer is not enough for the path out to a sea stack.

  • Walking boots: your everyday option for coastal paths and archaeological sites.
  • Wellington boots: ideal for beaches, rock pools and very muddy tracks. Many guest houses have a boot room or drying area where they can live.
  • Something soft for evenings: a pair of shoes or sandals for wandering to dinner.
  • Socks: pack more than you think. Wool socks, plus a spare pair in your day bag, are a small luxury when your feet get wet.

The Small Things That Make a Big Difference

These are the items people forget and then wish they had brought.

  • Hat and gloves: yes, even in July. A thin pair of gloves and a warm hat cost you nothing in luggage terms and save you on an exposed headland.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen: the sun reflects off the sea and the long summer daylight hours are deceptive. High factor, applied before you set out.
  • A buff or scarf: excellent for wind, spray and sudden chill.
  • A flask: hot tea or coffee on a bench overlooking Scapa Flow is one of Orkney's great simple pleasures.
  • Power bank: cold drains phone batteries faster, and you will want the camera for longer than you expect.
  • Reusable water bottle and snacks: shops and cafés can be a fair drive apart.

Packing for Your Guest House Base

A little thought about your accommodation makes the week run more smoothly. Most Orkney guest houses are well used to wet walkers and will have somewhere to hang waterproofs, dry boots and air damp clothing. Ask when you arrive where the drying space is, and use it properly: hang jackets open rather than bunched up, stuff newspaper or dry kitchen roll into soaked boots, and avoid draping wet gear over radiators unless you have been told it is fine.

Pack a couple of spare waterproof layers rather than one, so something can dry while you are out in the other. A small clothes line or a few pegs is handy for socks and gloves. And leave a little room in your case — between the knitwear, the books and the inevitable Orkney souvenirs, you will be glad of the space on the way home.

Finally, embrace the changeability. The shifting light and sudden squalls are part of what makes these islands so memorable. Dress for it, and you will find yourself outdoors far longer, watching the weather move across the sea rather than hiding from it.

Making the Most of a Self-Catering Cottage in Orkney

Tides and weather affect ferries, causeways and coastal walks. Check forecasts and tide tables daily to avoid disruption.

5 Comments

  1. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply
    • John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

      I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

      Reply
      • Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

        I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

        Reply
  2. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply

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