Exploring Orkney's Mainland Without a Car

By Where to Find Orkney Beef and Lamb on Menus
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28 Aug 2026

Exploring Orkney's Mainland Without a Car

Arriving in Orkney Without Your Own Vehicle

Most visitors reach Orkney by sea or air, and both land you within easy reach of the Mainland's two main towns. Ferries from Scrabster dock at Stromness, while sailings from Aberdeen and the passenger boat from John o' Groats bring you in at the southern end, at St Margaret's Hope or Burwick. Flights from Inverness, Aberdeen and the central belt land at Kirkwall Airport, about three miles from town, with buses and taxis meeting most arrivals.

Tell your guest house when you are due in. Many will arrange a taxi, meet you at the pier, or at least keep check-in flexible so you are not standing on a quayside with your suitcase at nine in the evening.

Getting to Grips with the Public Bus Network

Orkney's buses are the backbone of car-free travel, and almost everything radiates from Kirkwall, with a second hub in Stromness.

Kirkwall to Stromness: roughly hourly through the day and about half an hour end to end. Some journeys take a slower route through Stenness, close to the Standing Stones and the Ring of Brodgar.
West Mainland: a few services run out through Dounby towards Birsay and Evie, handy for the Brough of Birsay.
South Ronaldsay: buses head south across the Churchill Barriers to St Margaret's Hope and Burwick, passing the Italian Chapel.

Skara Brae is the awkward one. Summer timetables include journeys that stop near the turn-off at Sandwick, leaving a pleasant fifteen-minute walk down a quiet lane to the visitor centre — check the date on your timetable before relying on it.

Two things catch people out. Sunday services are sparse and non-existent on some routes, and the last bus of the day often leaves earlier than you would like. Pick up a timetable at the bus station or from your guest house, and ask about the seasonal summer additions.

Guided Tours Do the Driving for You

Half-day and full-day tours leave from Kirkwall and Stromness all year, with far more choice between Easter and October. Most collect from guest houses and hotels, which removes the fiddly business of reaching a meeting point.

Neolithic Orkney: Skara Brae, Maeshowe, the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness in a single loop.
Wartime heritage: Scapa Flow viewpoints, the Churchill Barriers, the Italian Chapel and the blockship wrecks.
Wildlife and coast: cliff walks and seabird colonies, with seals and hen harriers in season.

Book ahead for July and August. Maeshowe's interior can only be seen on a guided tour with timed entry, and those slots go quickly. A tour is also the simplest way to reach Hoy's remoter corners without a long walk.

Cycle Hire, Quiet Roads and Long Walks

Cycle hire is available in both Kirkwall and Stromness, including electric bikes that tame the undulating west Mainland. The roads are quiet by mainland standards, but they are not flat, and wind is a genuine factor — a headwind can turn ten miles into proper work.

Kirkwall to Stromness: about fifteen miles on the direct road, or a longer, quieter loop via Orphir and the Scapa Flow shoreline.
The Ness of Brodgar path: a waymarked walk linking the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar, ideal if you arrive by bus.
The Churchill Barriers: a flat, bracing ride south with the Italian Chapel as a natural turning point.
St Magnus Way: a long-distance walking route across the Mainland, easily split into daily stages.

Carry waterproofs and a lock. On single-track roads, use the passing places as diligently as drivers do.

Island Hopping from the Mainland

Basing yourself on the Mainland does not tie you to it. Foot passengers pay very little, and crossings are short.

Hoy: the ferry from Houton to Lyness takes about half an hour and sets you beneath the great crags of the north end. A bus meets many sailings.
Rousay, Wyre and Egilsay: sailings from Tingwall, with Rousay offering a fine archaeological trail within walking distance of the pier.
Shapinsay: a short hop from Kirkwall to a quiet island of farmland, a castle and good walking.

Check return times carefully. On several routes the last sailing back is early, and missing it means an unplanned night away from your guest house.

Practical Pointers for a Car-Free Stay

Stay central: a guest house in Kirkwall or Stromness puts buses, ferries, restaurants and shops within walking distance.
Ask your hosts: good guest houses know the timetables better than any app and will happily help plan a day.
Buy the right ticket: day returns and multi-journey passes usually beat singles.
Mix your transport: take a bus out and share a taxi back from a remote site.
Book essentials early: accommodation, tours and timed entries fill months ahead in summer.
Pack for four seasons: layers and a waterproof matter more than a car.

Orkney rewards slow travel. Without a car you notice more — light on the lochs, peat smoke, a conversation on the bus. With a little planning and a guest house that knows the island, the Mainland opens up beautifully.

Island Travel

Understanding Neolithic Orkney: A Visitor's Introduction

Each north isle has its own character, from sandy beaches to ancient sites. Plan ferry connections carefully to make the most of your trip.

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5 Comments

Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
- John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
  
  I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
  Reply
  - Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
    
    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
    Reply
Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply

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