Choosing a Cosy Guest House for an Orkney Winter Break

By Exploring Orkney's Mainland Without a Car
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14 Sep 2026

Choosing a Cosy Guest House for an Orkney Winter Break

Why Winter Might Be the Best Time to Visit Orkney

Most visitors picture Orkney in June, when the light barely fades and the ferry decks are full of walkers. But there is a quieter, more atmospheric side to these islands that only appears once the summer crowds have gone home. Winter in Orkney means blazing sunsets over Scapa Flow, empty Neolithic sites, and the welcome sight of a lamp glowing in a guest house window as you come in from a bracing walk. The trade-off is that you need to choose your accommodation more carefully. A guest house that feels charming in July can feel chilly and deserted in January.

Getting this right is largely about two things: warmth and hospitality. Here is how to find a place that delivers both.

Start with Heating, Not Decor

It sounds unromantic, but the single most important question to ask about a winter stay is how the building is heated. Orkney winters are rarely extreme by UK standards, but the wind is relentless and the damp air can creep into stone walls. A guest house that relies on a single storage heater in the hall will leave you reaching for an extra jumper by nine in the evening.

Look for listings that mention central heating included in the rate, or better still, heating available at any time of day. Some places operate a timer that switches the radiators off overnight; ask directly whether you can control the temperature in your own room. A good host will not be offended by the question. They will be pleased you asked, because it means you will be comfortable and likely to return.

Ask whether there is an electric blanket, hot water bottle, or extra duvet in the room.
Check if the room has double glazing or secondary glazing, particularly if it faces the sea.
Enquire about drying facilities for wet coats and boots. A boot room or drying cupboard is a genuine luxury in winter.

The Difference a Real Fire Makes

There is a particular pleasure in returning from a windswept afternoon at Maeshowe or the Ring of Brodgar and sinking into a chair beside a peat fire. Many Orkney guest houses have a residents' lounge with an open fire or stove, and in winter this becomes the heart of the building. It is also a useful indicator of the kind of stay you are booking.

A guest house that lights its fire in the afternoon is usually one where the owners expect guests to linger, chat, and perhaps share a dram. That sociability matters more in winter, when restaurants and attractions keep shorter hours and you may not want to go out again after dark. If the lounge is unheated and unused, the whole place can feel like a waiting room. Ask, or check reviews, about whether the fire is lit.

Winter Opening Hours and Honest Hosts

Not every Orkney guest house stays open year-round, and those that do often run a reduced service. Some stop serving breakfast during the quietest weeks, or offer a continental tray in the room instead of a cooked meal. This is not necessarily a problem, but you should know before you book.

An honest host will tell you plainly what is and is not available in January or February. They might mention that the local pub is closed on Mondays, that the nearest shop shuts at five, or that they can lend you a torch for the walk back from dinner. That kind of specific, practical information is worth more than any glossy photograph. If a guest house is vague about winter arrangements, treat that as a warning sign.

Confirm the exact dates of opening and whether breakfast is served daily.
Ask about evening meals or whether you should plan to eat out.
Check whether they can advise on ferry timings, which are more weather-dependent in winter.

Location Matters More When the Days Are Short

In summer you might happily base yourself in a remote corner and drive everywhere. In winter, darkness falls by half past four, and narrow single-track roads are less appealing after a long day. Consider staying in or near Kirkwall or Stromness, where you can walk to a restaurant, a pub, or the shops without depending on the car.

Kirkwall has the advantage of proximity to the airport and the NorthLink ferry terminal, as well as a good choice of places to eat. Stromness is smaller but wonderfully atmospheric, with a sheltered harbour and a strong sense of community. Either makes an excellent winter base. If you do choose a rural guest house, make sure it is somewhere you will be happy to spend a long evening, because you will be spending it there.

Small Touches That Show Genuine Care

The best winter guest houses understand that guests need a little more looking after. They are the ones who leave a flask of hot water on the landing, who offer a bowl of soup when you arrive soaked through, or who remember that you take your tea strong. None of this can be faked, and it is rarely advertised.

Look for reviews that mention specific acts of kindness rather than general praise. Phrases such as "nothing was too much trouble" or "they lent us wellies and waterproofs" tell you far more than a five-star rating. In Orkney, hospitality is a genuine tradition, and the islanders who run guest houses take real pride in it. Choose a place where the welcome feels personal, and your winter break will be remembered for the warmth of the people as much as the drama of the landscape.

Accommodation

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5 Comments

Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
- John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
  
  I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
  Reply
  - Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
    
    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
    Reply
Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply

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