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The Main Ferry Routes to Orkney

Orkney sits just a few miles off the north coast of Scotland, and the sea crossing is very much part of the trip rather than simply a means of getting there. Almost every visitor arrives by ferry, and there are three broad approaches depending on where you are travelling from.

The quickest and most popular crossings run from the far north-east of the Scottish mainland across the Pentland Firth. From Scrabster, near Thurso, a ferry sails to Stromness in roughly an hour and a half. A second short crossing links Gills Bay in Caithness with St Margaret's Hope in South Ronaldsay and takes about an hour. Both accept cars, motorhomes, bicycles and foot passengers, and both offer several sailings a day in summer.

If you are coming from further south, or you simply fancy arriving without a long drive, there is a longer sailing from Aberdeen to Kirkwall. This is an overnight service for much of the year, with comfortable cabins, and it is a genuinely restful way to travel — you board in the evening and wake up in Orkney. There is also a short seasonal passenger-only crossing from John o' Groats to Burwick, handy if you are exploring the far north of Scotland and want a quick hop across.

Which route suits you depends on three things: how far you are willing to drive, whether you need to bring a vehicle, and how much time you have. For most first-time visitors travelling by car, the Scrabster to Stromness crossing strikes the best balance of speed, scenery and convenience.

Booking Ahead: Timing Really Matters

In July and August, and around school holidays, the ferries fill up quickly — particularly the car decks. If you are bringing a vehicle, book as early as you reasonably can, ideally several months in advance. Foot passengers have far more flexibility and can often travel at short notice, but it is still wise to reserve rather than simply turning up.

• Book vehicles early. Car and motorhome spaces are the first thing to sell out on peak dates.
• Check the return leg too. A popular outbound date does not guarantee an easy journey home.
• Consider travelling on a weekday. Weekends in high season are the busiest.
• Look at shoulder season. Late spring and early autumn often bring calmer sailings, lower prices and quieter roads.
• Have a backup plan. If your first choice is full, try a different port or a different sailing time.

Arrive in good time for check-in. As a rule, foot passengers should be at the terminal around thirty minutes before departure, and vehicles closer to an hour, allowing for loading. Late arrivals are not always accommodated, so build in a buffer.

What to Expect on Board

The crossings are comfortable and well equipped. Shorter sailings have cafés serving hot drinks, soups and light meals, plus plenty of indoor seating and open decks. The longer Aberdeen route has cabins, a restaurant and lounges, and feels more like a small cruise than a commute.

Do not spend the whole crossing inside. The Pentland Firth is one of the most rewarding stretches of water in Britain, with dramatic cliffs, lighthouses and, in season, puffins, guillemots and the occasional seal or porpoise. The views back towards the Old Man of Hoy on the Stromness approach are worth braving the wind for.

If you are prone to seasickness, the short crossings are usually calm enough, but the Pentland Firth can be lively in poor weather. Sit towards the middle of the vessel, stay on deck if you can, and take medication before you sail rather than after.

Getting to the Ports

Scrabster and Gills Bay are both reached by road from Inverness, a drive of roughly two to two and a half hours along the A9 and then the far north coast. The scenery is superb, but the roads are single carriageway in places, so allow more time than a map might suggest.

There are rail connections to Thurso and Wick, with onward buses and taxis to the ferry terminals. Aberdeen has excellent rail, bus and air links, making the overnight sailing a convenient option for those coming from the south.

Many visitors choose to stay overnight near the port before an early sailing, and it is easy to see why — it turns a potentially rushed morning into a relaxed start. Parking is available at the main terminals, though it is worth confirming arrangements if you plan to leave a car for several days.

Reaching Orkney's Smaller Isles

Once you are in Orkney, a whole second network of ferries opens up. Inter-isles services run from Kirkwall to Shapinsay, Rousay, Egilsay, Wyre, Stronsay, Sanday, Eday, Westray, Papa Westray and North Ronaldsay, while Stromness connects to Hoy and Graemsay, and a separate service links Houton with Lyness and Flotta.

Most of these crossings are short — often under an hour — and many accept vehicles. Some are turn-up-and-go, but the longer routes and any sailing carrying a car benefit from booking. Weather can disrupt inter-isles services at short notice, so keep an eye on updates if you have a tight itinerary.

Practical Pointers for the Journey

A little preparation makes the crossing far more enjoyable. Layer up, as it is always cooler on deck than on shore. Bring a warm jacket, a hat and something waterproof within easy reach rather than buried in a suitcase.

• Snacks and a water bottle for children and anyone with dietary needs.
• Entertainment — a book, cards or a downloaded film, as signal can be patchy at sea.
• A charged phone and any cables, plus a power bank for longer sailings.
• Any medication you might need, including seasickness remedies.
• A printed copy of your booking reference, just in case.

Finally, if you are staying in an Orkney guest house, mention your sailing time when you book. Owners know the timetables inside out and will happily advise on which crossing to take, how long to allow, and whether you can squeeze in a stop at Maeshowe or the Ring of Brodgar on the way. That local knowledge is one of the quiet pleasures of island travel — and it starts before you even step on board.